Recent reports by the Changing Markets Foundation and Textile Exchange show an almost unstoppable growth of polyester and other fossil-based synthetic fabrics in the fashion and textile industry. At the same time, several larger retailers and brands are fundamentally opting for natural fibres. Is this the turnaround we are all waiting for? A brief look back and forward.
The state of play at the end of 2024
We first list the figures from Textile Exchange:
- Global fibre production increased from 34 million tonnes in 1975 to 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 124 million tonnes in 2024.
- Over the same period, textile demand per person increased from 8.3 kg in 1975 to 15.5 kg in 2024.
- The supply of natural fibres has remained constant over the years, meaning that the share of man-made fibres has risen sharply. See table.
- Naturally grown cotton accounts for 20% of production.
- Of this, only 3% is organically grown.
Changing Markets Foundation comes up with these observations:
- Polyester accounts for 69% of global textile production; this will rise to 73% by 2030.
- Fast-fashion is largely responsible for this rise. Cause: polyester costs about half as much as cotton. Fashion brands are using more synthetic fibres than ever before.
- Several larger retailers do opt for natural fibres, away from synthetic.
- Much of the industry employs the same four tactics* as the fossil fuel sector to delay and divert meaningful action against plastic pollution.
Four tactics to delay meaningful action against plastic pollution
- Exaggerate scientific uncertainty.
- Hiding behind softer voluntary initiatives and programmes.
- Misleading the public with false solutions.
- Shifting responsibility onto consumers.
We discuss these misleading tactics further in our next blog.
What conclusions can we draw from this?
Putting the above figures together and supplementing them with our own knowledge of the market, we come to these worrying conclusions:
- The explosive growth of synthetic fibres comes from the favourable price of these fibres compared to natural fibres (costs half) on the one hand, and the increased production by the fast-fashion market on the other. Consumers are buying more clothes than ever and wearing them shorter than ever.
- Most fashion producers think short-term and hide behind the same fallacies to downplay plastics pollution and resist change.
There is a lack of commercial impetus among both consumers and producers to structurally change course. The question is whether the devastating effect of microplastics and other sources of pollution before, during and after production is sufficiently known to the general public and has sufficient impact. We doubt that very much!
But also: our clients are mostly leading retailers, NGOs or active in hospitality and do factor long-term effects into their short-term decisions. They strategically choose sustainability and outperform their peers financially.
We discuss these misleading tactics further in our next blog.
How to proceed?
While many brands increasingly use plastic, we at nxtile support those making a different, conscious choice for 100% natural materials with our patented 100% recycled cotton. Climate action starts at the source of the materials we choose. We choose 100% recycled cotton. With this approach, we prevent the release of microplastics and ensure a fully circular life cycle. In this way, we avoid the recycling challenges of textiles made from blends of plastic and natural fibres.
Our impact is growing
Many leading brands have also embarked on this path. By 2024, we already saw more and more national retailers switching to our products. And a number of museums are also opting for tote bags and other merchandise items made of 100% recycled cotton. We expect many more brands to follow in 2025.
In the coming years, our policy will continue to focus on promoting 100% recycled cotton and convincing more and more brands of the added value of sustainability, circularity and the unholy path of plastics in textiles. We don’t make products, we deliver impact. Measurably and on an increasingly large scale. In India, in Europe, in Portugal, in the Netherlands, in Amsterdam. The savings we achieve in terms of land use and water consumption and reduced CO2 emissions are an inspiration to many people and industries. Together, we go for it, creating a maximum positive footprint in the cotton textile industry.
